Thursday, March 02, 2006

Feb 29: Malim to Batu Caves to Kuala Lampur

The day started like the others... in a pool of sweat at the crack of dawn. I set out on the bike ready to go to capital city - Kuala Lampur (called KL by the locals). Just a simple 80 kilometers, so I was looking to get into the city by noon.




As always, things change in a split second. About halfway, I spotted a sign for the Batu Caves. This was on my agenda of things to see in the city, but I was surprised to see a sign for it so soon. I looked on the map and noticed that it was just outside of the city, to the northeast. On the map, it looked like a shortcut, possibly saving me 10-15 kilometers.

Unfortunately, I failed to do a visual check of where this "shortcut" would lead me to. Some five kilos down the road, I figured out that I was headed directly into some tall hills (but not really mountains). So maybe I did save some distance, but I actually added some time climbing the hill.

The Caves were a let-down, actually. I was expecting something close to walking thru darkened corridors, but instead it was just a huge cavern with a very high ceiling and it led out to an opened area with Hindu shrines. Not to say that I regretted coming here, it was interesting to look at. Plus there were monkeys patrolling the grounds.

After that, I weaved my way into KL. This sounds easier than it really was. First of all, being on bike, I had to figure out which roads led into the city. The first choice I made led me into a four lane highway. I stayed the course for a kilometer, until I thought it wise to get off and try my luck on the streets.

I ended up following the main flow of traffic that went into the direction of downtown KL. There are two main landmarks - the Petronas Twin Towers and the Menara Tower. I eventually found my way thru the maze of streets and weaved thru the gridlocked intersections and found a place to stay.

Traffic isn't as bad as that of Bangkok, but almost. Certain areas get choked with traffic, but on my bike, it was easy to navigate through. The main problem is breathing in the fumes.

The problem with the city is that whenever I tried to find anything outside the downtown area, I was forced to get on a four-lane freeway. I asked many people for directions to places that would not include a freeway, but that doesn't seem to work. I asked one person about avoiding the freeway and he just said, "Don't worry, just go slow".

90 kilometers, 4 hours (of biking time to get to the city, another hour winding through the city).

FOOD: I'm starting to find out that there is not much variety in this country. KL does have its share of fine dining, but I'm not prepared for that (I only packed a shirt, shorts, very informal pants and sandals). I've resorted to either Indian buffets, Chinese street vendors and noodle shops. There are regular Chinese food restaurants, but they are a minority and on the surface most look like cheap, dirty shops that I would avoid in America. The others look like fine dining.